Tip 47: Horse playing age. So…you like playing horses half your age?????? Well, if you are in your forties or later, that may be somewhat of a concern…unless you are just getting started and looking for that “experienced” horse.
First off, horses have a life span of about 30-35 years. Their years of productivity are usually from around 3 yrs of age to late 20’s. The following ranges is a general guide:
Age in years Use/Level
3-6 Usually green (new to polo) and just getting started
3-10 If they make the grade, these are usually their peak years
8-15 Normally considered best age for amateur players
16 & up May still be very useful in lower levels of play
Now…don’t write in with all kinds of stories about your 32 year old horse that is still in the top of your string. I am well aware that some 4 year olds have the perfect demeanor for an amateur and plenty of us have had that older pony that just wont quit. The above chart is just about averages….there are always the exceptions.
So horses have about a 3 to 1 ratio with us as opposed to the 7 to 1 for our canine friends. For every calendar year, they age about 3 years to convert their age to ours. So a 20 year old horse is like a 60 year old person. Now just like people, some horses at that age are in very good physical condition, many are not due to previous injuries and the effects of natural aging.
There are many variables to the proper age to be considering. Very young horses are not always well suited for amateur riders simply because they are not as experienced. They may have a great attitude and ability, but they just haven’t been around the block enough times for a lesser experienced rider. i.e. Younger horses may not try quite as hard to stay up on all four when they stumble, until they experience falling. They may spook at many different things in their younger years and then come to accept them as they mature.
The older horses have been around the block numerous times, maybe, too many times, which usually translates into more physical wear and tear. We refer to them as having more “jewelry”. This is a somewhat comical reference, but jewelry on a horse can not be listed on the asset portion of your net worth. “jewelry” with horses are old leg injuries or developing arthritis. Jewelry on a horse does not hold its value, it is the very reason the value of the pony depreciates.
With that said, there are many younger playing horses that have injuries as well as the older ones. If they are a top playing horse, they may even still hold their value with some injuries. Sometimes a horse’s playing value far exceeds their true physical value.
There are even time when someone will not sell one of the experienced better playing horses simply because they would not be able to get fair compensation.
A horse may be at top playing form with injuries and age, but the question is how many chukkers do they have left in them? So they may still be worth buying, if you can get them at a reduced price.
If the horse is a good playing horse, they generally get used harder, more often. They flat out try harder, so that in itself causes more wear and tear. So it would probably be a little impractical on your part to think a great playing horse will come with a clean pre-purchase examination. You just need to work with your veterinarian and pro to determine what your needs are and the horse’s present capabilities. Doesn’t matter much what that horse has done, what they can now do for you is more relative. And I am not being disrespectful. It is truly amazing when a horse performs at the high goal levels. But because a horse won an open a few years back does not necessarily make them the perfect horse for you today. May not have been the horse for you then. Some horses are just too nervous…..excitable…….hot…… responsive………call it what you want…for a novice or intermediate rider. However, often times, a horse that has played higher goal polo will continue for years at a lower level of play and be perfectly suited for those lower levels.
If your skill is beginner or novice, even though you may be playing in higher goal levels of play, you will want a steadier, forgiving horse. A horse that will be more tolerant of mistakes that you will make. It is not important if they are the fastest horse on the field. What is important is that they are well suited for your present abilities. You can buy a race care, but they are outfitted with all the necessary latest safety features and you could still get in a lot of trouble if you went out as an inexperienced driver. The same is true for top performance horses. You need a few years with training wheels, then lesser responsive models, before you start stepping onto that “indy” horse.
Another caution is that a “green” rider and a “green” horse is a horrible color combination in the horse world. Green means inexperienced. A “green’ or unschooled horse may be a decent price and be very attractive to the horse whisperer inside of you, but don’t do it. You have now been properly warned.
Another variable is your usage requirements. Are you very demanding? Do you run the entire field at full speed? Do you stick and ball on all the off days? How many chukkers do you have to play this horse a week? How many months/year. If you are a high goal player, you expect a great deal out of your horse, where a lower goal player in high goal would not be demanding as much as their pro. If you are an amateur in low goal, and you want to play six chukkers/week for 12 months of the year, you don’t need a horse, you need a “hummer”. Not many horses will hold up for long with that kind of use unless you are in a slower level of play. Generally, the top horses play about three chukkers a week. They may play more in more important games and are often used just for portions of chukkers as you will see the players racing over to the side-lines to change horses. In the lower goal polo, you often see a horse get double chukkered up to 3 times/week. That is a lot to expect, unless you are very laid back in your style of play.
If all one did was walk and trot, they might be able to play an endless amount of chukkers every week, as is the case for some school horses.
Most horses get up to four months of rest each year, either by way of pasture…or just sometimes, a break from playing polo, but the exercising continues. Pasture is a great physical and mental break for the horse, but it is not without its own risks. Many good horses have been injured during turn-out, but that is another article.
The last subject would be how do we really know how old the horse actually is. The natural method of aging a horse is by looking at their teeth. For the first 14-16 years, you can get a pretty accurate read on a horse by looking at their teeth. Certain teeth come in at certain ages along with the wear of their teeth are pretty good indicators of age. Registered horses will have a birth date. Horses that have been run on the racetrack usually have a tattoo on the inside of their upper lip. The letter on the tattoo will allow a vet or trainer to determine their year of birth. It is not uncommon to have a horse represented a year or two younger than they actually are and it is not necessarily anything devious. It can be an honest mistake . . . you know . . . like how time seems to stand still for women that are 29 and guys in their late forties. And unless you have a registered birth date of your equine friend, it can be difficult to accurately age horses over 15. Best to get the assistance of your veterinarian or horse dentist.
So you thought there were simple answers to how old of a horse you should consider and how often you can play them? Silly you….you’re old enough to know better.
I wish you many chukkers on great horses that are well suited to you…whatever that age may be.
Tom Goodspeed
